Normal and damaged hair cuticle

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A normal hair strand (top). Note that the cuticle, the outside scaled layering of hair shaft, lays down flat making the hair healthy, shiny and easy to comb.

A damaged hair strand (below) shows how the cuticle is raised and ragged. The hair cortex is now exposed. The chlorine damaged strand will now reflect less light, resulting in telltale signs of chlorine damage- dull, dry, damaged and thinner hair. Also, since the cuticle is raised, hair will be more prone to tangles.

EFFECTS OF pH

There are other pool elements that cause problems for hair. One is pool pH. Hair and skin are acidic (pH of 4.0-5.5). Most pools are kept at a pH of 7 or above so that the chlorine can disinfect well, an important function. Even though the pH may be at neutral or slightly above, relative to the natural acidic condition of the hair, this change in pH is alkaline to the hair. Hair exposed to alkaline solutions produce damage to both the cortex and cuticle.

pH values above the hair's natural state break down keratin, the major protein in the hair. It does this by breaking the disulfide bonds. Some of these bonds are permanently damaged and do not re-form. Of those bonds that do re-form, they are now weaker than they were before, and each additional exposure to an alkaline condition weakens the elasticity of the hair further. Perms and hair colors both use alkaline solutions to break these disulfide bonds and when they re-form they are now in a different shape, as in the case of a perm, or a different color, as in the case of hair dyes. In both cases, the elasticity of the hair and protein structure is weaker than it was before, so hair is prone to breakage, becomes dry and more vulnerable to damage.

Not only does alkalinity alter the protein structure of the hair, but it also raises the hair cuticle (allowing a new color to be absorbed by the pigments in the cortex, when hair dye is used). Again, when the cuticle is raised, there is increased tangling, dryness, a dull look to the hair, and most importantly, more vulnerability to mechanical damage, such as breakage and stripping of the cuticle, by combing and brushing. So, when the hair is burned by chronic contact with chlorine AND the hair is exposed to alkaline conditions it is no wonder it looks and feels like straw. The corrosive effects of both reek havoc to the hair.

USE OF BAKING SODA RINSES

Recently, the use of a baking soda rinse followed by vinegar has come into vogue for "stripping" the hair of chlorine. Baking soda has a pH of about 8, thereby making it alkaline, especially compared to the healthy acidic state of hair. Our scientists do not recommend the use of baking soda on hair. As outlined above, an alkaline state is damaging to both the hair cortex and cuticle and should be avoided whenever possible. You do not want to add insult to injury when hair is already damaged.

This process may have an immediate benefit of making the hair look and feel softer, but this effect is probably due to the acidic effects of the vinegar (see below), laying down the hair cuticle rather than baking soda. However, the long term effects from using baking soda most likely produces even more damage than before. In fact, the baking soda may make the hair MORE vulnerable to the chlorine the NEXT time the hair is exposed to chlorine because the cuticle has been raised AND the proteins weakened.

USE OF VINEGAR RINSES

As mentioned above the benefits of the baking soda rinses most likely comes from the acidic vinegar effects. Vinegars of any type are acidic and when diluted, closely mimic the healthy acidity of normal hair. It has gentle cleansing and anti-fungal properties which can be useful for itchy scalp. It is very useful for removing product buildup . In fact, Fredrick Fekkai, known NEW YORK hair guru, has an entire product line based on this concept .

The scientists at poolHead DO recommend using a dilute solution of vinegar (2 tablespoons white vinegar/ 8oz glass of warm tap water) as an occasional clarifying rinse for hair. Once every two weeks is recommended. **An important note, too much of a good thing can be damaging as well! Please, do not use full strength vinegar without diluting it first with water. Nor do you want to use it too often. The pH is too low (about 2-3) and will result in a chemical burn to the hair.

WHY POOLHEAD PRODUCTS ARE SUPERIOR

One hair care product alone will not solve all the issues faced by swimmers and divers in the pool regularly. This is why poolHead has a comprehensive haircare system that combats all the pool elements. The key concept is protecting the hair before it's burned. No shampoo can fix the chlorine damage once it's occurred and the damage can't be washed away.

It takes a system approach to combat the corrosive effects of the pool. This is the poolHead Haircare system:

preTreat- lays down the hair cuticle naturally using extracts from the guar bean and keeps the hair protected from chlorine. Reduces tangling by 50%. pH adjusted and hair is kept at it's normal chemistry. Natural vitamins and antioxidants neutralize chlorine on contact, and protect hair from a chemical burn. Contains several chelators in sufficient quantities to prevent hair from turning green. Reduces bleaching.

shampoo- removes preTreat and neutralizes residual chlorine using natural amino acids, vitamins and antioxidants. Very gentle and can be used several times daily. pH adjusted. Also contains several chelators to removed any remaining heavy metals, such as copper. Plant extracts naturally calm, soothe and energize. Use only with preTreat in color-treated or permed hair.

Recovery Conditioner- a super rich and emollient conditioner that replenishes lost moisture from the pool. Reduces frizzy and fly-away hair by 65%. Great for dry hair. Plant extracts naturally refresh, and invigorate.